Curly Q: I've been relaxing my coarse, curls for years and thinking of going natural, but have no clue where to begin! Help!
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I have a gorgeous Dominican friend named Kenia, who knows how to rock natural hair like it's nobody's business (pictured here). Like most chicas with afro-textured hair, she relaxed it and wore it stick straight for years because many Latinos told her that her hair was "malo," unprofessional, and unmanageable. But that was far from the truth and look how amazing she looks now with her curls! While you may not be able to change the way society thinks about your hair, the first step to going natural is changing the way YOU feel about it, then learning how to manage and maintain it. I spoke with Tory Hawkins, Mixed Chicks go-to stylist on how to successfully transition from relaxed to natural hair. Check out her helpful tips below and embrace those beautiful rizos, girl!
Readmore ¿Qué más? Curly Qs: How can I make my curls look more polished?
Chop it off or grow it out: "If you have a least 2 inches of new growth, are brave, and consider yourself a trendsetter, a big chop is always a quick option to re-enter the curly world," says Hawkins. The cut is pretty much cutting all the relaxed hair off and only leaving the natural new growth. "If this is not an option for you, be patient. The traditional transition process takes time. Be sure to get regular trims of at least 1 1/2 inches every month."
Moisturize: Hawkins suggests skipping the shampoo and using a moisturizing conditioner, like Mixed Chicks Detangling Deep Conditioner ($11), to cleanse and hydrate hair, integrating shampoos only once or twice per month. You can also consider a sulfate and lather-free cleanser, like DevaCurl No-Poo Cleanser ($19) to replace your shampoo.
Be careful when you tie hair: "Because transitioning hair is extremely fragile, especially at the line of demarcation (where the natural hair stops and relaxed hair begins) stay clear of tightly secured ponytails and other styles that would place extra stress and cause breakage," Hawkins says.
Always detangle your hair when it's wet: "Using a wide-tooth comb or my personal favorite, a nice paddle brush because it gives even distribution and less pressure on any area," says Hawkin. You can also try detangling your strands with your fingers while you still have conditioner in your hair. Just add some water as you go and detangle starting from your ends, working your way up to your roots.
Avoid the hot tools: Because natural hair is so fragile and prone to breakage, Hawkins suggests refraining from heat styling tools like blow dryers, curling irons, flat irons and hot rollers. "It's best that you choose air drying instead of blowdrying," she says. "When absolutely necessary, always be sure to use a good thermal protectant serum. It will provide a protective barrier that will allow your curls to begin to form without damage." Try TRESemme Thermal Creations Heat Tamer Protective ($4).
Try different methods of styling: "One of the most frustrating dilemmas you may discover are styling options," Hawkin says. "It is very difficult blending several different textures. You may opt for some protective methods of styling such as bantu knots or twist sets. Keep in mind that curly hair does not respond the same as chemically straightened hair. Be open and creative to different styling options." Try Goody Start Style Finish Flexible Rod Rollers ($15).
Don't get discouraged: "Give yourself at least 6 months. The average rate of hair growth is 1/2 inch per month. So in 6 months you should average 3 inches and after a year, at least 6 inches. It will all be worth it," says Hawkins.
