Protein treatments have become the hottest beauty trend all my hair-obsessed friends talk about, but a lot of people don't realize what they actually do. Damaged hair usually either lacks protein or moisture, so it's important to figure out what your hair needs before shopping for products. So, how do you know if you need a protein treatment and what does it do anyway? Let's break it down.
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First, make sure you do the strand test.
A strand can easily help determine what your hair needs are. Simply take a strand of your hair, make sure to wet it with water, and then stretch it. If it stretches too much and breaks or just feels too soft, your hair is most likely lacking protein. If it doesn’t stretch much but feels dry and brittle, it probably lacks moisture. And if it stretches a little, returns to its normal length and doesn’t break, it’s well balanced.
Why do you need protein?
“Your hair is made of a protein called keratin,” says Nate Rosenkranz, Alterna Haircare Global House of Experts Stylist. “There are many variables that can diminish the proteins in your hair such as the environment and heat styling. Protein treatments are hydrolyzed versions of various proteins that help add nutrients back into the hair.” These treatments essentially work to strengthen and repair damaged hair.
Don’t over do it.
“The frequency of protein treatments is dependent on each individual’s hair health,” says Rosenkranz. “If your hair is damaged you should do a protein treatment twice a week until your hair is back to normal then maintain once a week to twice a month. For normal [healthy] hair, I would recommend a weekly treatment."
Be careful with DIY protein treatments.
“I don’t recommend DIY protein treatments as they are not designed to penetrate the hair which is what makes protein treatments effective,” adds Nate Rosenkranz. “They essentially lay on top of the hair like a band-aid, instead of providing the nourishment you desire.” They might work great for moisturizing but not necessarily for rebuilding protein.
Try a pre-wash protein treatment.
The Madam C.J. Walker Beauty Culture Dream Come True Wonderful Pre-Wash Protein Treatment ($32) is packed with shea butter, Provitamin B5, and coconut oil, to add shine and softness to damaged hair while preventing breakage. Apply to damp hair before shampooing, leave on for 15 minutes, and rinse as usual. Also, only use every other week.
Try a protein hair mask.
The Alterna Haircare Caviar Repair RX Fill & Fix Treatment Masque ($42) is made with strand-building proteins that work to repair each individual strand. Apply to clean, damp hair and leave on for three to five minutes before rinsing out. Use once a week for damaged hair.